From 'Raccoon Eyes' to Rising Stars: North Korea's Cosmetics Industry Expands Under Kim Jong Un's Watch

The 'Raccoon Eyes' Era: A Humble Beginning

Did you know that just a decade ago, North Korean women were frustrated with their own mascara and eyeliner? Even a simple yawn could leave them with 'raccoon eyes,' as Kim Jong Un famously pointed out during his 2015 visit to the Pyongyang Cosmetics Factory. At the time, North Korean beauty products lagged far behind international brands, both in quality and durability. This public criticism from the leader himself set the stage for a dramatic transformation in the country’s approach to cosmetics.
Kim’s comments were not just about beauty—they reflected his desire to improve everyday life for North Koreans, especially women. The regime recognized that cosmetics were more than superficial: they were a matter of pride, dignity, and even national image.

Kim Jong Un’s 'Loving the People' Politics: Gifting Beauty

Kim Jong Un’s interest in cosmetics goes beyond mere economic development. He has used beauty products as a symbol of his 'people-first' governance, often gifting high-quality cosmetics to women and promoting the idea that everyone deserves to feel beautiful. His wife, Ri Sol Ju, has also played a visible role, accompanying him on factory visits and serving as a style icon for North Korean women.
Recent years have seen Kim pushing for world-class standards, demanding that local brands like Unhasu rival luxury names such as Chanel and Shiseido. This drive is not just about competition—it’s about fostering a sense of pride and modernity within North Korea’s borders.

The Rise of the Unhasu Brand and Product Line Expansion

The Pyongyang Cosmetics Factory, especially its flagship Unhasu line, has become the face of North Korea’s beauty revolution. After Kim’s critical visit, the factory underwent major upgrades, introducing advanced technology, modern production lines, and a research institute dedicated to cosmetics innovation. Unhasu now offers over 100 products, including skincare, makeup, and even men’s toiletries.
Recent reports highlight a strategic expansion into male grooming, reflecting global trends and changing attitudes among North Korean men. The brand’s focus on natural ingredients and functional cosmetics—such as anti-aging creams and sun protection—echoes broader K-beauty trends seen in South Korea and beyond.

Quality Leap: Competing with Global Luxury Brands

North Korean cosmetics are no longer just about quantity; quality has become the new mantra. Kim Jong Un famously sent 138 international beauty products to his scientists for analysis, instructing them to match or surpass the world’s best. The result? Unhasu’s moisturizing creams are now claimed to be on par with Chanel in terms of effectiveness and safety, thanks to the use of local plant and animal extracts.
International observers and even some foreign diplomats living in Pyongyang have praised the improved quality of North Korean cosmetics, noting their gentle formulas and elegant packaging. However, most North Koreans still aspire to own South Korean or Japanese brands, which are smuggled in through underground markets.

Cosmetics as a Cultural and Social Statement

In today’s North Korea, cosmetics are more than just products—they’re a cultural phenomenon. Women and even men in both cities and rural areas are embracing skincare routines, facial masks, and specialized products like edible collagen and brightening creams. The desire for beauty is driving demand for both local and imported goods, and beauty salons are popping up in unexpected places.
Wearing makeup has also become a subtle act of self-expression and, for some young North Koreans, even a quiet form of rebellion. Millennials are increasingly using makeup to assert individuality, despite the state’s conservative standards. This shift mirrors global trends, where beauty is tied to freedom and personal identity.

Community Reactions: Online Buzz and Everyday Voices

If you browse North Korean-related forums and South Korean community sites like Theqoo, Nate Pann, Instiz, Naver, Daum, DC Inside, FM Korea, or PGR21, you’ll find lively debates about North Korean beauty products. Some users are impressed by the rapid improvements, while others remain skeptical, joking that 'no matter how much they upgrade, nothing beats Korean brands.' Positive comments highlight the pride North Koreans feel in their homegrown cosmetics, while negative ones point to persistent issues with consistency and international competitiveness.
On Naver and Tistory blogs, beauty reviewers who have managed to get their hands on North Korean products often describe them as surprisingly gentle and affordable, though not quite at the level of global luxury brands. There’s also curiosity about the unique ingredients—like ginseng and herbs from Mount Paektu—and the influence of Ri Sol Ju’s fashion sense on product design.

Cultural Insights: What Foreign Fans Should Know

For international readers, it’s important to understand the cultural context behind North Korea’s cosmetics boom. Beauty in North Korea is closely tied to state ideology, gender roles, and national pride. The government’s push to modernize the industry is as much about projecting a sophisticated image to the world as it is about improving daily life.
At the same time, the North’s embrace of K-beauty trends—like natural ingredients, multifunctional products, and inclusive marketing—shows the porous nature of cultural borders, even in a closed society. For foreign fans, North Korean cosmetics offer a fascinating glimpse into a society balancing tradition, modernity, and the universal desire to look and feel beautiful.